fixed hubs

The Madera Pilot front hub uses the same center axle as the Fixed front hub, so you can follow these instructions for that hub as well. The only difference is in the conespacers. Incidentally, the center axle from the Profile Mini hub will fit both the Fixed front and the Madera Front as well, if you so desire. The Fixed rear hub uses smaller bearings and a different axle, but otherwise the steps to replace the bearings is the same.

Of course, It's preferred that you use a proper bearing press to install new bearings in your hubs, but since we recognize that not everyone has access to those, we provide these instructions to make things easier for you. Using this home-made bearing press, you can install bearings into Profile Fixed hubs. We are happy to overhaul your hubs here at Profile for a small fee. Please contact us for details.

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The bearing press contains two components: the 3/8" coarse threaded rod and nuts (t), which you need to purchase from your local hardware store, and the washer kit, which you can purchase from our online store. The washer kit contains: (q) 2 3/8" steel washers, (r) 2 3/8" aluminum washers, (s) 2 14mm washers (for rear hub bearings) and (u) 2 3/8" cone spacers (for front hub bearings).

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Pictured is a front hub, but the rear rub has the same components.

• a. axle bolts (2)
• b. threaded cone spacers (2)
• c. hub bearings (2) (front #6903, rear #6902)
• d. aluminum center axle (1)
• e. hub body (1)

Bear in mind that rushing this process can lead to damaging your hub. Take your time and make sure that the bearing press and the bearings are aligned correctly at all times as you press them in.

Overhauling your hubs is not something that needs to be done more than once or twice a year, unless you ride 3 or 4 hours a day, everyday. Then you might need to do it 3 or 4 times a year, but my point is that you shouldn't take your hubs apart just for the sake of taking your hub apart.

You will need new bearings, two 3/16" allen keys for the cone spacers, a bench vice to hold the lower nut on the threaded rod, a wrench that fits the upper nut on the threaded rod, and a rag. Of course, you should inspect all of the hub's part before you begin to reassemble it, to ensure that the hub will perform as close to new as possible when you're done. Inspect the hub flanges for cracks, and make sure that the aluminum center axle doesn't appear bent, bashed, worn, stripped, or cracked. Also make certain that your cone spacers aren't crushed or otherwise deformed. If they are difficult to remove from the axle or hub, that's a pretty good indication that they are damaged. you can purchase Profile Fixed Hub Small Parts in our online store, or your local bike shop can order the parts for you.

To disassemble the hubs, remove the axle bolts, and loosen one of the cone spacers about half way. Thread an axle bolt back in the loosened conespacer, and hit the bolt with a hammer. Loosen the cone spacer a bit more and hit the bolt- repeat the process untill the bearing drops out the other side.

Clean and inspect the hubshell, center axle, and cone spacers for damage.

To reassemble your hubs, we will thread a nut onto the threaded rod about 5 or 6 inches down, and clamp the nut in the jaws of a bench vice as shown.
Place, in this order, a steel 3/8" washer (q), a 3/8" aluminum washer (r) and either the 14mm steel washer (s) (for rear hubs) or the aluminum 3/8 cone spacer (u) for front hubs. We'll be working on a front hub in the pictures, so you'll put the aluminum cone spacer on the threaded rod next, then the hub bearing, and the aluminum center axle.
Place the hubshell on top of the bearing. We're going to press one bearing in at a time, so place the aluminum cone spacer directly onto the bearing seat of the hubshell, then the 3/8" aluminum washer (r), the steel 3/8" washer (q), and finally, a 3/8 bolt.
IMPORTANT! Make sure the bearing is straight! Make certain the cone spacer is square to the bearing! Begin to tighten the bolt on top, making sure that everything is aligned properly. If the bearing isn't straight, you can damage your hubshell.
When the bearing is installed completely, it will be recessed slightly into the hubshell
Place the other bearing on top of the hub, followed by the 3/8" aluminum washer (r), the steel 3/8" washer (q), and finally, a 3/8 nut. The bearings should not slide into the hubshell at this point- if they do, or if you can slide them in and out of the hubshell with your bare hands, there is an issue with your hubshell. Call us and discuss it.
Begin to tighten the nut on the top of the hub. Make certain that you have the bearings as square to the hub as possible, so they go into the hub straight. Continue to tighten the nut until you feel a definite stop.
The bearings fully pressed in.
The bearings when properly installed should be below the level of the edge of the hub.
Tighten the cone spacers down. It's easiest with two allen keys at the same time. A drop or two of blue loc-tite on the threads of the cone spacers is recomended, but not mandatory.
Once the cone spacers are completely tightened, you will again feel a stop. Spin the axle. It will probably feel a bit rough, so you will need to "shock" the bearings. You can tighten the axle bolts into the cone spacers completely, and then strike the bolts sharply. You shouldn't need to hit both sides of the axle more than 3-4 times to get the axle spinning smoothly, if you were careful about pressing in the bearings.
Replace the wheel in your bike. Check it again for roughness and side to side play. If you feel roughness, but no side to side play, remove the wheel from the fork, and snug both bolts to the hub. They should be maybe a half a turn past finger tight. Hit one of the bolts with your mallet sharply, but not like you're trying to ring the bell at the county fair. One or two taps should completley seat the bearings if they weren't seated before. Anything more than that, start the process over.

If you are unable to resolve an issue with your hub, we do perform repairs here for a nominal fee. Please don't hesitate to contact us if you run into difficulties. Riding a poorly performing hub is never a good idea.

DISCLAIMER: These instructions are provided as a service. The best way to install sealed bearings is always a bearing or arbor press. The methods discussed here are alternatives for the home bike mechanics with home bicycle tools. If you are not careful, you will damage your hubs and bearings. Profile cannot be held responsible for any damage caused by attempts at repair attempted by anyone other than employees of Profile racing.

If you are unsure of your abilities, take your bike to a local bike shop, or contact us at Profile. We are happy to overhaul your hubs for you here. Contact Shane at Profile at 727.391.7370 for details.